SMART SHOPPING: It's hard to think of a better $13 Chardonnay from anywhere in the world. This impressive wine shows why it's smart to look for the "Sonoma County" appellation when you shop for values, rather than a more pricey neighborhood within Sonoma like Russian River or Alexander Valley.
A medium-bodied and outstanding Chardonnay that exhibits fruit and spice complexity, a good dash of seasoned oak, great balance and a lingering finish. Its subtle attributes grow on you. Drink now through 2009.
Sonoma: town with a past
Character and luxury co-exist in this memorable destination
By Susan Kostrzewa
Visitors to the town of Sonoma revel in its earthy and eccentric charm, qualities that distinguish it from the studied glamour and glitz of Napa Valley. The eight-acre plaza, 19th century adobe style buildings and pastoral setting lend an old-fashioned, small-town feel to the place, but don’t be fooled: Sonoma is more a tourism hotspot than a one-horse town. It’s a Mecca for all manner of wine lovers, history buffs, and food fanatics. Take a look at the worldly, well-heeled travelers strolling the streets in the summer, and you’ll see how much the town has evolved from its humble origins.
(Above, the carriage house at MacArthur Place, a recommended hotel)
Long inhabited by Pomo and Miwok Indians who named the valley “many moons,” Sonoma was settled in 1823 by Franciscan monks (who planted the first grapevines and built the last in a series of California mission churches) and was later taken over in 1846 by American settlers who were unhappy with Mexican governmental rule. European immigrants (mostly Italian) moved in around 1900 and fueled the winemaking industry. Remnants of the city’s dramatic past remain in rambling Victorian homes, lopsided Spanish buildings and restored historic hotels alongside a mass of modern art galleries, restaurants, and chic clothing boutiques.
More than 100 wineries are located in Sonoma Valley, which constitutes a small part of Sonoma County, and the town is an excellent base from which to explore them. Rent a cycle or hoof it to
,
or
, all located close to the city square. The town’s oldest winery,
, is also nearby and a spectacular place for a picnic under the eucalyptus trees. If you’re inclined to shop for lauded local goods like lavender products, artwork or artisan cheese, shops ringing the plaza are stocked with everything from the tony to the traditional. History enthusiasts can visit the old mission and barracks, and the restored Toscana Hotel, for a sense of the town in its Victorian heyday.
Sonoma is located 43 miles north of San Francisco via U.S. 101 North and Highway 37 East. Visitors should give themselves a few days to explore the region—also including the nearby districts of Kenwood, Glen Ellen and Carneros, home to some of the world’s best Pinot Noir. The route along Highway 12 just outside of the town is home to almost 40 wineries, among them noted names like
,
,
, and
.
Sonoma Lodging
The
El Dorado Hotel
recently underwent a facelift under the direction of the Auberge du Soleil group and emerged as a chic and urbane alternative to the town’s more traditional lodgings. All 27 rooms
(like the one pictured right)
include a private patio overlooking the property’s garden patio or the plaza. The restaurant serves California fusion cuisine and has an impressive wine and cocktail list. $145-$195. 405 First Street West; 707.996.3220;
The Lodge at Sonoma
is an elegant property with all of the amenities a larger chain can offer, such as a pool, on-site restaurant, and full-scale spa. A wine tasting room is also located on the grounds. As for the rooms, the charm lies in its 102 guest cottages, but the 80 lodge rooms and two upscale suites are top-notch, too. $169-$419. 1325 Broadway; 707.936.6600;
MacArthur Place
is located within walking distance of the plaza and all 64 rooms are decorated in Victorian period furnishings. The on-site restaurant, Saddles, specializes in steak -- a classic cohort to the red wine made in this part of the country. Rooms from $179. 480 First Street East; 800.722.1866;
Sonoma Dining
Cafe la Haye
(shown left)
is hands-down one of the favorite eateries among foodies from Sonoma and beyond, so make a reservation. The spot is small, but the revolving menu excellent. Think New American Cal cuisine showcasing local ingredients. Dinner Tuesday through Saturday, brunch on Sunday. Entrées $16-$29. 140 E. Napa Street; 707.935.5994.
LaSalette’s
name might evoke French influences, but it’s actually Portuguese. The menu offers traditional dishes like Porco a Alentejana alongside more exotic fare like Mozambique Prawns and Piri-Piri Chicken, and the wine list (with an emphasis on Port, of course) has won numerous national awards. Tuesday-Sunday. Entrees $16-$25. 452 First Street East; 707.938.1927.
The Girl and the Fig:
Owner Sondra Bernstein holds court at this French-style, wine-savvy restaurant in the historic Sonoma Hotel, turning out luscious plates of quiche, lamb and pommes frites in environs that evoke rural France. The back patio is a haven in spring and summer, the perfect place to sip a glass of Viognier from the wine bar whose list of offerings is heavy with California Rhone-styles. Lunch and dinner daily. Entrees $18 - $22. 11 West Spain Street; 707.938.3634.
The
El Dorado Hotel
recently underwent a facelift under the direction of the Auberge du Soleil group and emerged as a chic and urbane alternative to the town’s more traditional lodgings. All 27 rooms
(like the one pictured right)
include a private patio overlooking the property’s garden patio or the plaza. The restaurant serves California fusion cuisine and has an impressive wine and cocktail list. $145-$195. 405 First Street West; 707.996.3220;
Cafe la Haye
(shown left)
is hands-down one of the favorite eateries among foodies from Sonoma and beyond, so make a reservation. The spot is small, but the revolving menu excellent. Think New American Cal cuisine showcasing local ingredients. Dinner Tuesday through Saturday, brunch on Sunday. Entrées $16-$29. 140 E. Napa Street; 707.935.5994.
