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Parducci Petite Sirah Mendocino True Grit 2003
Score: 90
Not exactly a bargain, but a very good, bold bottle of red wine in a style that Parducci mastered long ago. Calls for red meat, barbecue and pasta. Gutsy and bold, but just refined enough. Deep colored, full-bodied, with lots of grip in the texture from tannins, and lots of blackberry flavor to balance it out. Hints of smoke and black pepper add complexity. 
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Napa Cabernet Close UpHere are more details on the wineries and wines featured in the "Napa Cabernet Revisited" article.(Go back to the feature article) 
BEAULIEU VINEYARD
Typical varietal composition: 100 % Cabernet Sauvignon Vineyard source(s): BV-owned vineyards in Rutherford Average production: 9,500 cases Winemaker: VP Winemaking Joel Aiken Beaulieu Vineyard was founded in 1900 by Frenchman Georges de Latour, whose name graces the winery's top-line Cabernet. This wine is the most important historical benchmark for Napa Valley Cabernet since it has proven its value, and that of its Rutherford vineyard sources, for nearly 70 years. BV was eclipsed for a time by brighter new stars but its wines are arguably better than ever today. This wine's style features the solid, ripe cherry flavors that epitomize Rutherford-grown Cabernet, firm structure and great balance. Beaulieu Georges de Latour 1994 91 $90* 1995 92 $80 1996 92 $80 1997 94 $105 1998 88 $89 1999 96 $90 2000 93 $70 2001 97 $85 2002 95 $95 2003 93 $NA 2004 96 $NA 
BERINGER VINEYARDS Cabernet Sauvignon Napa Valley Private Reserve First vintage: 1977 Typical varietal composition: 95%-plus Cabernet Sauvignon, and Cabernet Franc Vineyard source(s): Howell Mountain, Spring Mountain, St. Helena Average production: 10,000 cases Winemaker: Ed Sbragia; Vineyard Manager Emeritus: Bob Steinhauer Beringer Private Reserve is an assemblage made from different lots of wine from different parts of Napa Valley, making it more of winemaker's wine than many of its peers. Ed Sbragia reportedly locks himself in a room to do the final tastings and determine the vintage's final composition. Beringer Private Reserve comes in an elegant package but it packs lots of power and concentration. Beringer Private Reserve 1994 91 $120* 1995 95 $85 1996 96 $90 1997 97 $100 1998 89 $70 1999 89 $95 2000 92 $100 2001 96 $90 2002 94 $NA 2003 98 $NA 2004 95 $NA 
DUCKHORN VINEYARDS Cabernet Sauvignon Napa Valley Estate Grown First vintage: 1997 (earlier vintages were labeled simply Napa Valley) Typical varietal composition: 84%-plus Cabernet Sauvignon, with Merlot and Cabernet Franc Vineyard source(s): four estate-owned properties Average production: 2,000 cases Winemaker: Mark Beringer Duckhorn is rightly famous for its outstanding Merlot, but insiders have long known the St. Helena winery for its excellent Cabernet Sauvignon, too. Earlier vintages in this report were marked by more savory flavors while the recent vintages overflow with a sweet, juicy fruit character. Duckhorn made the best 1998 in this report. Duckhorn Estate 1994 90 $70* 1995 93 $75 1996 89 $80 1997 93 $80 1998 96 $75 1999 95 $95 2000 95 $85 2001 98 $85 2002 97 $NA 2003 94 $NA 2004 95 $NA 
JOSEPH PHELPS VINEYARDS Napa Valley Insignia First vintage: 1974 Typical varietal composition: 71%-plus Cabernet Sauvignon, with Merlot and Cabernet Franc Vineyard source(s): Estate-owned vines in Stags Leap and Rutherford Average production: 15,000 cases Winemaker: Craig Williams Insignia was the first high-profile California wine of the modern era without a varietal designation. Winery founder Joe Phelps wanted Insignia to be the best possible Bordeaux style red wine he could make in a given year, and potentially any blend of the five grape varieties was allowed in the early years. But since the late 1980s Cabernet Sauvignon has been its backbone; all Insignias since 1994 have at least 71 percent. Starting with 2004 Insignia is made from Phelps-owned vineyards only. Joseph Phelps Insignia 1994 93 $150* 1995 91 $140 1996 97 $120 1997 95 $160 1998 94 $110 1999 98 $110 2000 94 $100 2001 98 $100 2002 95 $120 2003 98 $NA 2004 96 $NA 
ROBERT MONDAVI WINERY Cabernet Sauvignon Napa Valley Reserve First vintage: 1968 Typical varietal composition: 80%-plus Cabernet Sauvignon Vineyard source(s): To Kalon, Oakville, Stags Leap Average production: 17,000 cases Winemaker: Genevieve Janssens Mondavi Reserve Cabernet has long been a standard bearer for the landmark Oakville winery. It started as a blend of grapes from around Napa Valley but has become steadily more Oakville oriented, reaching 91 percent in 2002. 50 percent of it was grown in Mondavi's historic To Kalon Vineyard, first planted in the late 1800s. The style of the Reserve has been quite muscular, contrasting with the elegance usually espoused by the founder. Robert Mondavi Reserve 1994 90 $160* 1995 95 $150 1996 93 $100 1997 89 $130 1998 94 $90 1999 94 $90 2000 95 $75 2001 97 $105 2002 95 $NA 2003 94 $NA 2004 96 $NA 
SHAFER VINEYARDS Cabernet Sauvignon Stags Leap District Hillside Select First vintage: 1983 Typical varietal composition: 100% Cabernet Sauvignon Vineyard source(s): Shafer estate in Stags Leap Average production: 2,500 cases Winemaker: Elias Fernandez Unusual in this report, Shafer Hillside Select is all sourced from one vineyard: the Shafer winery property in Stags Leap. It combines the famous supple quality of Stags Leap-grown wines with the power and concentration of hillside grapes. This combo results in a wonderfully delicious and consistent wine that excels when young or old. Auction prices confirm it as one of the first cult Cabernets. Shafer Hillside Select 1994 95 $325* 1995 97 $300 1996 90 $290 1997 95 $350 1998 93 $160 1999 99 $200 2000 89 $160 2001 99 $175 2002 96 $NA 2003 98 $NA 2004 97 $NA 
SILVER OAK CELLARS Cabernet Sauvignon Napa Valley First vintage: 1979 Typical varietal composition: 78-96% Cabernet Sauvignon Vineyard source(s): Multiple vineyards ranging from Napa city to Calistoga Average production: 17,000 cases Winemaker: Daniel Baron Silver Oak only makes Cabernet Sauvignon. Its notoriously loyal fans make pilgrimages twice a year to the winery in Oakville for Release Days, and the opportunity to buy a few bottles of this or the Alexander Valley bottling. Grapes arrive from different Napa vineyards, and only American oak barrels are use in aging. Conceived to be drinkable and balanced when released, it is not a blockbuster. Silver Oak Napa Valley 1994 88 $140* 1995 91 $135 1996 92 $125 1997 93 $140 1998 87 $110 1999 94 $105 2000 88 $90 2001 92 $100 2002 92 $NA 2003 91 $NA 2004 94 $NA CaliforniaWineWeb's 100-Point Scale: 95-100, World-Class; 90-94, Exceptional; 85-89, Very Good; 80-84, Good; 70-79, Average; Below 70, Poor. * Most older vintage prices are auction estimates including buyer's premium, courtesy of Heritage Inventory and Appraisal Services, L.L.C., www.heritageinventory.com . March 30, 2006 |
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